best raptor 660 mods

I'd go with a full exhaust and a jet kit first. The stock muffler is a boat anchor. A decent slip-on and rejet wakes it up a ton. Just make sure to check your model year because the carb setup changed slightly. Don't forget to adjust the fuel screw too.

I did the intake mod (lid removal with outerwears) plus a Dynojet kit and a cheap HMF pipe. Huge difference in throttle response. But you gotta stay on top of the jetting or it'll run lean and cook the top end. Invest in a wideband O2 sensor gauge if you're serious.

Skip the cheap Chinese pipes. They sound like crap and often don't fit right without filing. Stick with known brands like Yoshimura or Pro Circuit. I've had a Yoshi RS-3 for two years and it's held up great. Just don't expect huge HP gains—these mods are more about sound and throttle feel.

If you're on a budget, the best mod is removing the airbox lid and jetting. That's maybe $50 for a jet kit and you'll feel it. Also check your valve clearances while you're in there—they get tight and cause starting issues. That's free maintenance that really helps.

I'm more of a trail rider and went with a cam and heavy clutch springs. More midrange grunt, less top-end scream. But installation is tricky if you don't have tools. Watch a few YouTube videos before diving in. Also, you'll need a new gasket for the cam cover.

For reliability, the number one mod is a good aftermarket clutch basket and a Barnett clutch kit. The stock clutch can't handle even mild mods. Mine started slipping after a jet kit and pipe. Upgrading now costs more but saves you from a stalled ride in the middle of nowhere.

I'd recommend starting with tires. Seriously, a good set of radials (like ITP Holeshots) transforms the handling way more than an extra 2 HP. You can't put power down if you're spinning all day. Then do the pipe and jetting. That's the smart order.

Don't forget to check the carb boot for cracks. Mine was sucking air and I chased jetting problems for weeks. Replace it with a silicone boot if you can. Also, consider a fuel filter upgrade—the stock one is tiny and clogs easily with ethanal gas.

I went with a custom map from a local dyno tuner after doing a full exhaust and intake. That cost me $300 but it's the smoothest running quad I've ever owned. Definitely worth it if you're not comfortable doing your own jetting. Just make sure the tuner knows Raptors.

The Raptor 660 responds really well to a cam from Hot Cams. The stage 1 is perfect for trails—more torque without losing idle quality. Pair it with a degree key? I used an adjustable cam sprocket to dial in the timing. Night and day difference in grunt.

If you're doing dunes, get a paddle tire setup and a shearer pipe. That's the classic drag setup. But for trails, don't go too extreme on the pipe—you'll lose bottom end. I made that mistake and had to buy a second pipe. Do your research based on your riding.

One thing nobody told me: the stock stator is weak. If you add lights or a big battery, upgrade to a bigger stator. Also, check your wiring harness for melted connectors—common issue. I fixed mine with a trailer harness replacement and heat shrink.

I'd suggest a ported head and valve job if you have the cash. It really opens up the top end. But you need to support it with a good pipe and carb. That's not a beginner mod though. Have a pro do the porting or you'll lose power.

Honestly, the best mod is practice and setting up the suspension. I got my Raptor corners better with a set of Elka shocks. After pipe and intake mods, the quad was harder to ride because of the extra power. Suspension makes you faster everywhere.

Don't forget about the exhaust header. The stock one has a restrictor ring. Some people grind it out or buy a aftermarket header. I just used a dremel, but you have to be careful not to leave burrs. That gave me a few HP for free.

If you want a cheap power mod, remove the snorkel from the airbox and drill a few holes in the lid. Then rejet accordingly. That's what I did before buying a full intake kit. Works fine for mild riding but not for racing.

I'm a mechanic and I always tell customers to start with a compression test. If your rings are worn, mods won't help. Then do a leak-down test. The 660s are tough but they do wear valve guides. Fix the basics first before throwing money at go-fast parts.

One safety note: when you remove the airbox lid, you'll suck in more dirt. Use a quality air filter (like Uni or K&N) and re-oil it regularly. I learned the hard way with a seized bottom end after a dusty ride. Not worth it.

I'm a beginner and I just did a jet kit and a slip-on. Took a few hours and the instructions were clear. The biggest thing was getting the idle mixture screw adjusted—I had to buy a special screwdriver. Now it runs perfect. Highly recommend for beginners.

Whatever you do, double check the model year compatibility before buying. The 2001-2002 carb is different from 2003-2005 in a few ways. I bought a jet kit that didn't fit and had to send it back. The specs online are often wrong, so call the manufacturer.