best snow plow for brute force 750

I swapped my stock plow for a low‑profile steel one and added a 5 lb sandbag to the front rack. The lower blade reduced lift and the extra weight helped keep the front wheels planted. It did make steering a bit heavier on tight turns, but on a driveway the trade‑off was worth it. Make sure the bag is secured so it doesn’t shift while you’re riding.

I tried a lightweight aluminum plow instead of the heavier steel version. It reduced the front‑end bounce, but I found I still needed a bit more weight. I ended up bolting a small lead weight under the front fork, which gave me the grip I needed without compromising maneuverability. Just be careful not to over‑balance the bike.

As a beginner, I’d suggest keeping the stock plow and focusing on your throttle control. Adding weight can make the bike feel sluggish, especially on hills. I’ve never had a problem with traction on a light snow cover, and I think you might be over‑engineering the solution.

I’m a mechanic and have seen many riders add too much front weight, which can stress the front suspension and steering bearings. A modest 2‑3 lb weight is usually enough. Also, check that your plow’s mounting bolts are torque‑spec’d to avoid loosening when you hit hard corners.

I disagree with the heavy‑weight approach. My experience with a 10 lb weight caused the front wheel to dig into packed snow, making the bike unstable. I switched to a wider, lower‑cut plow and it solved the problem without extra mass. Sometimes the blade geometry is the real issue.

I once used a rubber‑lined plow to increase friction on the front wheel. It gave me better grip on icy patches without adding any weight. The downside is the rubber can wear quickly, so be prepared to replace it often.

If you ride both trails and snow, consider a removable weight system. I use a quick‑release plate that lets me add or remove a 4 lb block in seconds. It’s a good compromise, but remember to re‑check your tire pressure after swapping the weight.

My advice is to widen the front tire tread rather than add weight. I fitted a 2.5‑inch knobby tire and the extra surface area gave me the traction I needed. The bike feels more balanced and you don’t have to worry about extra load on the suspension.

I had a similar issue and tried a dual‑blade setup. The second blade sits lower and pushes snow away from the front wheel, reducing lift. It adds some complexity to the steering, but the plowing performance improved dramatically for me.

From a safety standpoint, remember that adding weight changes the bike’s center of gravity. I once saw a rider flip when the front became too heavy on a steep incline. Keep the weight low and as close to the bike’s frame as possible.

I’m relatively new to the Brute Force line, but I found that adjusting the plow’s angle a few degrees lower helped keep the front wheel down. It’s a simple tweak that doesn’t require extra parts, though you’ll need to re‑check the alignment after each use.

My mechanic friend suggested welding a small steel plate onto the front fork to act as a weight and a brake‑dust shield. It worked well for him, but it’s permanent and could affect future resale. Consider a removable solution if you plan to sell later.

I tried a pneumatic front plow that inflates slightly when you hit resistance, reducing lift. It’s pricey, but the performance is impressive. The only drawback is you have to maintain the air pressure, which adds another maintenance step.

I’ve used a magnetic weight that sticks to the bike’s frame. It’s easy to attach and remove, and it’s rust‑proof. The downside is it’s not as heavy as a lead block, so you might need a couple of them to feel a difference.

One of my fellow riders swore by adding a small battery pack to the front for extra weight. It gave the bike a nice front‑heavy feel and also provided power for lights. Just make sure the wiring is secured and weather‑sealed.

I think the key is progressive testing. Start with a small weight, test on a short stretch, then add more if needed. I added 1 lb at a time and found the sweet spot at 3 lb. Over‑loading caused my front brake to overheat quickly.

For those who ride both snow and mud, a removable steel weight plate works well because you can swap it for a mud‑sling plate when you’re back on the trails. It’s a bit of extra work, but it keeps your bike versatile.

I once tried a carbon‑fiber plow to reduce overall weight, but the lack of mass made the front wheel bounce a lot on hard snow. It was a fun experiment, but I ended up going back to the heavier steel blade with a small weight.

Finally, don’t forget to check your front brake pads after adding weight. Extra pressure can cause them to wear faster. I replaced my pads after the first season of using a front weight and noticed a big improvement in stopping distance.

From a maintenance point of view, I would check the simple things first and avoid turning it into a bigger project than needed. Fluids, battery health, tire pressure, belt condition, air filter, and loose wiring can change how an ATV feels. A careful inspection often tells you more than a spec sheet or seller description. For "best snow plow for brute force 750", I would double-check the owner's manual, current condition, and local trail rules before treating any advice as final.