what is a good size atv for adults

At your weight, I’d avoid anything under 500cc. I started on a 400 and it felt strained on hills and with cargo. A 570 or 650 is a nice balance – enough torque for real work but not a pig in tight trails. Just make sure you test ride for leg room.

I’m 6'3" and 240. I went with a 700 because I kept maxing out smaller machines on utility stuff. It’s heavier but stable. If you’re mostly trail riding, a 650 is plenty. The extra weight of the 700 only matters if you’re lifting it out of mud often.

Don’t overlook the 500 class. A good mid-size like a Can-Am Outlander 570 or Polaris Sportsman 570 hauls my 200-pound frame just fine on rough trails. Unless you’re dragging heavy trailers, you don’t need a 700. Save the weight and maintenance.

Funny you mention suspension – nobody talks about sagging. On a 450 or 500, you might need stiffer springs aftermarket if you’re over 200 pounds. Factor that into your budget. My 600 needed a shock upgrade right away.

I disagree with the ‘go bigger’ crowd. I’m 210 and my 450 works great for woods riding and occasional towing. It’s lighter, easier to turn, and I can throw it around. Unless you’re doing aggressive dune riding, a 500 is plenty. Just regear for low-end if needed.

For a big guy, foot peg placement matters as much as engine size. My old 500 cramped my knees. I’d sit on a few – the Polaris 570 and Yamaha Kodiak 700 have extended footwell options. Make sure your boots don’t hit the plastic on turns.

Look at the Honda Rubicon or Pioneer 520 for utility – they’re not fast but they’re bulletproof. Engine size is secondary to gearing and low-range. I use a 500 for hauling firewood and it never bogs. But for trail speed, you want at least 600 cc.

If you’re buying used, check the clutch and belt condition. A 700 with a worn belt will feel anemic. Also, a larger displacement ATV often has better cooling for slow crawling. My friend’s 450 overheated on a long technical section; my 650 didn’t.

I’m 5'10" 190 so not your size, but I’ve ridden many. The sweet spot for you is probably a 650-700. The extra torque means less shifting on hills. Just be careful with used 700s – some earlier models had crank issues. Research model years.

Don’t forget about wheelbase length. Bigger engines usually come on longer chassis, which can make tight switchbacks a pain. A 500-570 on a medium frame is easier to pivot. I’d prioritize maneuverability over raw power unless you’re in wide open spaces.

One thing that’s underappreciated: the seat height and width affect how you lean. I’m 6'0" 220 and a 700 felt like a couch – too wide to pinch. Test sit a 500 and a 700 side by side. The ergonomics change more than the cube numbers suggest.

If you plan to ride with passengers, that changes the equation. A 450 can handle one person but add a passenger and it’s sluggish. Go for a 700 if you’ll ever have a buddy onboard. Also, check the payload rating – some 500s have low capacity.

For your height, I’d get a riser for handlebars no matter what engine size you pick. I’m 6'1" and even on a 650 my wrists hurt after an hour. Aftermarket bars or bar risers are cheap but make a huge difference in comfort. Don’t skip that mod.

I ride a Suzuki KingQuad 500 and at 230 pounds, it handles fine. But I did swap the rear springs for heavy-duty ones. Stock suspension on many mid-sizes are set for a 180-pound rider. Factor $200-400 for spring upgrades into your budget.

Power delivery matters more than displacement. Some 450s have a snappy fuel-injected engine that feels punchy, while older 700s have carburetor lag. I’d test ride a fuel-injected 570 vs a carbureted 700 and see which you prefer. Modern FI is hard to beat.

You didn’t mention budget, but new 500s are a lot cheaper than 700s. A used 700 from a few years back might be same price as a new 500. I lean towards newer with warranty. But check maintenance records – a neglected 700 is a money pit.

Another vote for the 650 class. My Kawasaki Brute Force 650 is spot on for trail and light work. Enough grunt to pull a trailer but light enough to pop wheelies. For your weight, maybe slip a few extra psi in the tires to reduce roll during hard turns.

I’d warn anyone buying a used ATV to verify the previous owner’s weight. If they ran a 450 while heavy, the frame and suspension could be fatigued. Same for clutch wear. Check the underside plastic for cracks from bottoming out. Safety first.

If you’re looking at new, many dealers will let you demo. I tried a 500 and a 700 back-to-back on a short trail. The 500 felt like I was pushing it, the 700 felt lazy but controlled. You might prefer the latter if you want relaxed cruising.

Final thought: think about resale. In my area, 500-600cc used ATVs sell faster than big bores because they appeal to more riders. So if you think you might upgrade, a mid-size is easier to flip. And always check the model year compatibility for aftermarket parts – some years have specific clutch or CV joint issues.